Axum, also spelled Aksum, is a town in the Tigray Region of Ethiopia. It has a population of 66,900 people (as of 2015) and was the historic capital of the Aksumite Empire.
Axum is located in the Central Zone of the Tigray Region, near the base of the Adwa mountains. The town sits at an elevation of 2,131 meters (6,991 feet) and is surrounded by La'ilay Maychew, a separately administered area within the Tigray region.
In 1980, UNESCO added Axum’s archaeological sites to its list of World Heritage Sites because of their historical importance. Before the Tigray War began in 2020, Axum was a major tourist destination for visitors from other countries.
History
Little is known about the early history of Aksum, which is believed to have changed from a small local center to a powerful kingdom. Archaeological discoveries at Gobadra (Gobo Dara) and the Anqar Baahti rock-shelters show signs of Stone Age activity nearby. Excavations by R. Fattovich at amba 'Beta Giyorgis near Aksum prove that people lived in Aksum as early as the 7th to 4th centuries B.C. Excavations in the Stele Park at Aksum show that the area was active since the start of the common era. By the 1st century A.D., Aksum was called a "metropolis" in the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea.
Several archaeological studies have explored different parts of Aksum. Early stelae, or obelisks used as grave markers, were simple and rough. Over time, they became smoother and were carved to look like multi-story towers in a unique style. Aksumite buildings used large granite blocks, smaller uncut stones for walls, mud mortar to hold them together, bricks for arches, and wooden frameworks shaped like "monkey-heads" or square corners. Walls often leaned inward and had recessed sections for strength. Similar styles were found in "palace" buildings in Axum, Adulis, and Matara. A large reservoir, now called May Sum, below May Oho hill may date to Aksumite times, showing the city had a steady water supply. Aksum likely had fertile farmland, as shown by wheat on Aksumite coins, many animals, forests for firewood, and industries like metalworking, glass, and pottery. Evidence of skilled stone carving, architecture, and crafts like ivory and leather working is found in tombs.
Cosmas Indicopleustes, who visited Aksum in the 6th century, described a four-towered palace with bronze unicorn statues. Aksum also had large granite thrones with metal statues of gods like Astar, Baher, Madr, and Mahram. These thrones had inscriptions from rulers like Ousanas, Ezana, Kaleb, and Wazeba, recording their victories. One inscription mentions Ezana placing a throne "here in Sado," likely a place in Aksum. Libraries in Aksum held important Christian texts, and Coptic monks translated many books in the 5th and 6th centuries. The Bible was translated into Ge'ez, and the only complete surviving copy of the Book of Enoch is in Ge'ez.
Contact with the Byzantine Empire ended when Arab forces took control of its eastern regions, making Aksum poorer and more isolated. Aksum stopped being the political capital of the kingdom after the 8th century, moving to the south. An inscription by Hasani 'Dano'el mentions subduing Aksum’s king and making the city a tributary in the 9th century. The region may have struggled to support a major city due to environmental damage from high demand for food and firewood. By the late 9th century, Aksum was mostly abandoned and fell into ruins.
Aksum regained importance after the rise of the Solomonic Dynasty, becoming the spiritual center of the Ethiopian Empire. A collection of Ge'ez documents, called the Book of Axum, includes stories about Aksum, land records, and other materials. This text is sometimes found with the Kebra Nagast and other works. Aksum had a governor named Nebure Id, who was also a church official. The Kebra Nagast was written by Nebure Id Yishaq of Aksum, but the book never names Aksum directly, calling it "Dabra Makadda."
The Aksum Seyon was restored by Dawit I in 1406. It is said to house the Biblical Ark of the Covenant, which contains the Ten Commandments. Zara Yaqob was crowned there in 1436 and lived in Aksum for three years. Later kings also chose Aksum for their coronations. The ceremony involved cutting a cord held by the "daughters of Aksum," symbolizing the king’s rule over "Zion." Ancient stone thrones were used as coronation chairs, though the ritual included anointing and a church service.
Francisco Alvares, a Portuguese missionary who visited Aksum in the 1520s, described it as a large town with well-built houses, good water sources, and ancient carvings of lions, dogs, and birds in stone. He wrote about the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, the stelae, and other structures. He described the church as "very noble," named after its altar stone from Mount Sion. The church had five wide aisles, vaulted ceilings, painted walls, seven chapels, and a large courtyard with flagstone paving. It was surrounded by enclosures with buildings and stone carvings.
In the 16th century, Adal leader Ahmed ibn Ibrahim al-Ghazi attacked Aksum, destroying the church Alvares described. Before the attack, a document in the Book of Aksum listed 1,705 golden items and other treasures that Lebna Dengel gave to governors to protect them. Ahmad’s chronicler noted the destruction of a large stone.
Main sites of Axum
The main monuments in the town of Axum are called steles. These large stone pillars are about 1,700 years old and are a symbol of Ethiopia's cultural identity. Many of the tallest steles are located in the Northern Stelae Park, including the Great Stele, which is 33 meters (108 feet) tall. It is believed that this stele broke during construction. The Obelisk of Axum was taken by Italian soldiers in 1937 and returned to Ethiopia in 2005. It was reinstalled on July 31, 2008. The next tallest stele is King Ezana's Stele, which is 24 meters (79 feet) tall. Three other steles are 18.2 meters (60 feet), 15.8 meters (52 feet), and 15.3 meters (50 feet) tall. The steles are thought to mark burial sites. They originally had metal discs attached to their sides, which were carved with designs resembling buildings. The Gudit Stelae, located west of the town, are surrounded by tombs from the 4th century.
The town also has two important churches: the Old and New Churches of Our Lady Mary of Zion. The Old Church was built in 1665 by Emperor Fasilides and is said to have once held the Ark of the Covenant. An earlier version of the church, built by Emperor Ezana, was destroyed by fire, rebuilt, and later damaged during the Abyssinian–Adal war in the 1500s. It was rebuilt again by Emperor Gelawdewos and his brother Emperor Minas, and later replaced by the current church built by Emperor Fasilides. Only men are allowed to enter the Old Church, a rule some believe began after the original church was destroyed. The New Church of St. Mary of Zion was built next to the old church. It was constructed to honor a promise made by Emperor Haile Selassie to Our Lady of Zion for helping Ethiopia gain freedom from Italian forces. The new church was built in a neo-Byzantine style and started in 1955. Women are allowed to enter this church. Emperor Haile Selassie left a state visit with Queen Elizabeth II to attend the church's dedication, showing its importance. Queen Elizabeth visited the church later. Between the two churches is a small chapel called The Chapel of the Tablet, built at the same time as the new church. It is believed to house the Ark of the Covenant. Empress Menen Asfaw, Emperor Haile Selassie's wife, funded its construction with her own money. Only the guardian monk who lives there is allowed to enter the chapel. Even the Patriarch of the Orthodox Church and the Emperor of Ethiopia were not permitted to enter during the monarchy. These two churches and the chapel are considered the holiest places in Ethiopia for members of the Orthodox Church.
Other attractions in Axum include museums that display archaeological and ethnographic items, the Ezana Stone, which is written in Sabaean, Ge'ez, and Ancient Greek, similar to the Rosetta Stone. There is also King Bazen's Tomb, a large stone structure believed to be one of the oldest. The Queen of Sheba's Bath is actually a water reservoir. Other sites include the 4th-century Ta'akha Maryam and 6th-century Dungur palaces, the Pentalewon Monastery, and the Abba Liqanos. About 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) west of the town is the Lioness of Gobedra, a rock art site. Local stories say the Queen of Sheba once lived in the town.
Climate
The Köppen-Geiger climate classification system groups Axum's climate into the subtropical highland category (Cwb). This classification is similar to the semi-arid climate categories (BSh/BSk).
Demographics
According to the Central Statistical Agency of Ethiopia (CSA), on July 1, 2012, the estimated population of Axum was 56,576. The census showed that 30,293 people were female and 26,283 were male.
The 2007 national census reported Axum’s population as 44,647, with 20,741 males and 23,906 females. Most people in the town practiced Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity, with 88.03% stating this as their religion. Ten point eight nine percent of the population were Muslim.
In a 1969 book about her walk across Ethiopia, Irish travel writer Dervla Murphy wrote that Axum’s population was “about 20,000,” including 500 religious leaders.
The 1994 national census recorded Axum’s population as 27,148, with 12,536 men and 14,612 women. The largest group was Tigrayans, making up 98.54% of the population. Tigrinya was used as the first language by 98.68% of residents. Most people practiced Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity, with 85.08% reporting this religion. Fourteen point eight one percent of the population were Muslim.
Transport
Axum Airport, also known as Emperor Yohannes IV Airport, is located just 5.5 kilometers (3.4 miles) to the east of the city.
Education
Aksum University was created in May 2006 on a new site, 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) away from the center of Axum. The university's official opening took place on February 16, 2007. The campus covers an area of 107 hectares (260 acres) and has enough space to grow larger in the future. Having a university in Axum is expected to help the country and the region develop.