Lalibela is a town in the Amhara Region of Ethiopia. It is located in the Lasta district and North Wollo Zone and is known for its famous rock-hewn churches. These churches are different from earlier monolithic churches in Ethiopia. Lalibela is an important place that shows the history of Ethiopia during ancient, medieval, and later times. For some Christians, Lalibela is one of Ethiopia’s holiest cities and a place for religious pilgrimages.
Ethiopia was one of the first nations to adopt Christianity in the early 400s. Its Christian history began during the time of the Apostles. The churches in Lalibela were built between the 700s and 1300s. They are traditionally linked to the reign of King Gebre Meskel Lalibela of the Zagwe (Agaw) dynasty, who ruled around 1181–1221.
The layout and names of the main buildings in Lalibela are widely believed to represent Jerusalem. Some experts think the churches were built after Jerusalem was captured by Muslim leader Saladin in 1187.
Lalibela is located about 2,500 meters (8,200 feet) above sea level. It is the main town in Lasta, which was once part of the Bugna district. The rock-hewn churches were declared a World Heritage Site in 1978.
The best time to visit Lalibela is during the dry season, from October to March, when weather is most suitable for exploring the area. During this time, the city becomes very busy during major religious festivals, such as Genna (January 7) and Timkat (January 19). These festivals include religious services, multi-day processions, traditional music, and rituals.
History
There is disagreement about when some of the churches in Lalibela were built. According to local tradition, before becoming king, Gebre Meskel Lalibela, also known as Roha, was guided by Jesus during a visit to Jerusalem. Jesus told him to build a second Jerusalem in Ethiopia. Lalibela, traditionally known as Roha, was founded during the Zagwe dynasty under King Gebre Meskel Lalibela’s rule (around 1181–1221). However, it is more likely that the churches developed over time through multiple construction and renovation phases.
David Roden Buxton created a widely accepted timeline, noting that two churches closely follow a tradition linked to Debra Damo, as seen at Yemrahana Kristos. Because carving the rock structures would have taken longer than the short reign of King Lalibela, Buxton believed the work continued into the 14th century.
David Phillipson, a professor of African archaeology at the University of Cambridge, suggested that some churches, including those of Merkorios, Gabriel-Rufael, and Danagel, were originally carved as fortifications or palace structures between 600 and 800 during the Kingdom of Aksum. King Lalibela’s name may have been linked to them later. Meanwhile, local historian Getachew Mekonnen credited Queen Meskel Kibra, Lalibela’s wife, with building Biete Abba Libanos as a memorial for her husband after his death.
Recent archaeological findings at Lalibela uncovered pottery and animal remains dating to 900–1100, showing the area was a secular settlement before becoming a religious center under King Lalibela. Pre-Christian carvings of animals were found on the lower walls of the nearby Washa Mikael Rock-Hewn Church, with Christian paintings added later, indicating ongoing Christianization in the region.
The name "Lalibela" first appeared in a European publication, the Fra Mauro map from Venice (1457–59), written as "Lalabeda."
In the 1520s, Portuguese priest Francisco Álvares visited Ethiopia with the Portuguese ambassador. He described the churches as unique and swore to the truth of his accounts, stating that no other Portuguese had seen them. Although Ramuso included church plans in his 1550 printing of Álvares’ book, the source of the drawings remains unknown.
According to the Futuh al-Habasha by Shihab al-Dīn Ahmad ibn Ibrahim al-Ghazi, he burned one of Lalibela’s churches during his invasion of Ethiopia. He described a rock-hewn church with pillars carved from the mountain and claimed a nun threw herself into a fire before being rescued. However, Richard Pankhurst questioned this, noting that records of Ahmad al-Ghazi’s 1531 campaign do not mention church destruction. He suggested the church burned was likely Biete Medhane Alem or Gannata Maryam.
Miguel de Castanhoso, a soldier under Cristóvão da Gama, visited Lalibela in 1544 and described the churches as miraculous, carved entirely from rock with no outside materials. He noted that Moors tried to destroy them but failed.
In 1882, French explorer Achille Raffray received an Ethiopian manuscript in Lalibela, claiming King Lalibela and his wife brought 500 workers from Alexandria and Jerusalem, led by a man named Sidi Meskal. However, later experts corrected Raffray’s translation, revealing the manuscript included three texts: a Coptic statement from Abuna Bartolomeo (dated to the reign of Dawit I), an Arabic land charter, and a Ge’ez text from the reign of Dawit II. None mentioned foreign builders.
During the Second Italo-Ethiopian War, Emperor Haile Selassie visited Lalibela in 1936 before returning to his capital, risking capture. Italian forces captured the town shortly after.
In 1968, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi and Emperor Haile Selassie visited Lalibela. The following year, Queen Juliana and Prince Bernhard also visited.
During the Ethiopian Civil War, Lalibela faced attacks by the Ethiopian People’s Democratic Movement (EPDM). In 1984, EPDM briefly held ten foreigners captive and captured a French transport crew in 1985. These attacks reduced foreign tourism, and by 1990, most visitors were Ethiopians.
In early August 2021, Tigrayan Defense Force fighters captured Lalibela during the Tigray War in response to Amhara forces invading the region. The Ethiopian army recaptured the town on 1 December 2021, but Tigrayan forces took it again on 12 December. Ethiopian state media reported a second recapture on 19 December, though the timeline was unclear.
In early November 2023, fierce fighting occurred between the Ethiopian National Defense Force (ENDF) and Fano fighters. Lalibela is currently under Ethiopian government control.
Architecture
The churches in Lalibela show strong influences from the Aksumite style of architecture. Stuart Munro-Hay explains that the church of Biete Amanuel uses stone to copy wooden features, similar to those found in older churches in Tigray and Eritrea. Framed doors and windows are a common design in these churches, as they resemble the shape of stone pillars from Aksum. Examples include the decorated arches of Biete Gabriel-Rufael, the doorway of Biete Maryam, and the windows of Biete Amanuel. However, David Phillipson says that the presence of Aksumite-style architecture does not always mean the churches were built during the Aksumite era. Aksumite features might have been added later, but they show a lasting connection to Aksumite traditions. The churches also show influences from Eastern Christian styles, such as Syrian and Coptic. The sloped roof and straight designs of Biete Maryam suggest a Syrian influence. Stuart Munro-Hay notes that during the time of Gebre Meskel Lalibela, many Coptic people from Egypt moved to Ethiopia and may have helped build the churches from that period. Some travelers, like Manuel de Almeida and Hiob Ludolf, believed most of the monuments were built by Egyptian architects. Francisco Álvares found that many locals thought the churches were mainly built by foreigners. However, Stuart Munro-Hay argues that the churches’ architecture follows the Aksumite style, so foreign influence was likely limited to decorative details. David Buxton agrees, pointing out Coptic influences in some designs but emphasizing that the churches originated from local builders, as they follow the style of nearby buildings with clear Aksumite roots.
In a 1970 study of traditional homes in Lalibela, Sandro Angelini examined the simple earthen houses in the Lalibela World Heritage Site. He described two types of homes. The first type, called "tukuls," are round houses made of stone and often have two floors. The second type, called "chika" buildings, are single-story, round homes made of earth and woven branches. Angelini believed these chika homes reflected limited resources. His report also listed the traditional buildings in Lalibela, grouping them based on how well they were preserved.
Churches
This rural town is famous worldwide for its churches carved from rock inside the ground, known as "living rock." These churches are important examples of rock-cut architecture. The exact dates when the churches were built are not certain, but most are believed to have been created during the time when Lalibela ruled, around the 12th and 13th centuries. UNESCO recognizes 11 churches, organized into four groups:
Further away, there is the monastery of Ashetan Maryam and the Yemrehana Krestos Church. These may have been built in the 11th century using a style similar to the Aksumite period, but they are located inside a cave.
The churches are also impressive engineering achievements because they are connected to water sources. Wells near many of the churches are filled with water from a natural underground system that brings water to the top of the mountain where the town is located.
Other features
Lalibela has an airport (ICAO code HALL, IATA LLI), a large market, two schools, and a hospital.
Demographics
In 2007, the census reported that the population was 17,367 people, with 8,112 males and 9,255 females. Using data from the Central Statistical Agency in 2005, the town's estimated population was 14,668 people, including 7,049 males and 7,619 females. The 1994 national census showed the population was 8,484 people, with 3,709 males and 4,775 females.